Returning to Skye - Day Two

I got up early at 7:30am ready for a cooked breakfast at 8am because I knew I had a lot to pack in today and still reach my pre-booked dinner slot at 6:30pm in Dunvegan. The breakfast was bacon, sausage, eggs, and toast with homemade jam and it was delicious, along with as much coffee as I could drink and orange juice. The only downside was having to listen to the other couple sniffing disgustingly throughout. Where have peoples' manners gone? My host was good enough to fill my water bottle with cold water and my thermos cup with hot water to warm me up after my swim.

First stop was Dun Ringill: a fort overlooking the sea. According to the walking website, the beginning of the circular trail through the woods could be muddy and so I thought I would do the walk in reverse along the shoreline and back, missing out the wooded section entirely. Unfortunately, this was a mistake on my part because I almost immediately lost the path as it descended onto the pebble beach and I missed the point at which it went back up onto the grass from where it was perfectly well marked. So I stumbled along the rocky shoreline and ended up scrambling over quite large rocks until, at last, I found a beautiful rock arch and a cave, but then realized I could go no further. A more obvious path from here went up the hill between the rock stacks and so I took that and emerged onto the proper path which I should’ve been on all the time but then, of course, I probably would’ve missed the lovely arch below. From there it was much quicker and I found the fort within about 10 minutes.

Dun Ringill (Gaelic: Dùn, 'fort', Ringill, 'point of the ravine') is an Iron Age hill fort. Tradition holds that it was for several centuries the seat of Clan MacKinnon - wonder if that is the same MacKinnons as the Widow MacKinnon and relative of last night's b'n'b host.. It is located on the west shore of Loch Slapin. The original structure is consistent with an Iron Age broch dating to approximately the first years of the common era. The structures were occupied and modified throughout its history until the 19th century. It doesn't seem much of a fort to me - it’s a pile of rocks with a lintel across a sort of passageway out onto the top of the cliff from where you’ve got a 360° view of beautiful landscape. I took a few photographs and then headed back because I was worried about being behind time. However, now that I was on the marked path, it took half as long to get back to the car. Sadly, I had to return via the lovely bridge rather than take the stepping stones across the river because the tide was still in.

Next stop was Torrin pools. I hoisted my kit bag out of the car and the falls were literally a two minute walk from the road. Another couple were heading out at the same time as me and asked if I was going for a swim. I said yes and returned the question to which they also replied yes. I worried for a second that I was going to be sharing the tiny pool with two strangers, but it looked like they were heading off on a long walk first to work up an appetite for the cold water. I scrambled down some rocks to the beautiful looking aquamarine pool with small waterfall, but I could see another more tempting spot just a little higher up so I thought I’d check that out first. It was a winner. It was more private. You couldn’t see the road and I knew I would have it all to myself and not be too overlooked if anyone else did come by. I put my costume on and took the plunge. Yes, the water was freezing - my hands hurt. But it was beautiful, with the sound of the falling water and the birdsong and not another soul in sight. Once I was acclimatised to the cold, I decided to grab my stuff and scramble back down to the other pool, which was bigger, to try that too. I had a few lovely minutes in the cold water enjoying the enveloping arms of the rocks that hid me completely from view and felt like a secret grotto. I knew I shouldn’t stay in too long and yet, as I took my last photo, waist deep in the silky water, six photographers came into view. I got out and proceeded to dry and dress but it was making me a little nervous with so many long lenses waving around. Not that they would want me in their photos!

I got back in the car, turned the heated seat on and the hot air up high and drank my tea to warm back up whilst I drove on to the highland cow viewing area. Suddenly there were lots of people, all cooing over the gorgeous and very obliging highland cows and several very new calves. So cute. I managed to pull out past the coach blocking the lay-by and got underway again. I see highland cattle often enough, but it’s obligatory to stop at such a touristy destination, especially seeing as I was driving right past it.

Onwards to Sligachan waterfall. A short walk from the road and a choice of pools, but I found the nicest a little further up the river. A perfect spot under the brooding grey clouds, distant mountains obscured by a deluge of rain over the peaks and a few spots overhead added to the atmosphere. It was easier getting in second time round but my hands were just as painful. I think it was navigating the super-slippery rocks beneath the surface that made me forget the frigid temperatures. I nodded at three couple who walked by wrapped up in puffer jackets and wooly hats. Dried and dressed, I grabbed a couple of photos of the beauty and then headed back to the car. My legs were feeling like lead today so I’m glad it wasn’t too far.

On to lunch, and not before time - Birch Coffee in Portree. But it turned out to be a no-go. There was zero available parking anywhere in this town - very tourist unfriendly! So I finished the mouldy sandwiches I had packed the day before along with a bag of crisps and a Crunchie bar to keep me going until 6.30pm. However, I was ahead of time and the traffic was light and flowing.

Next was a drive through and past the Quiraing, but not before also passing the Old Man O,Storr. And here I found about 80% of all the tourists on Skye! It was heaving. I stopped for a few photos and a coffee and then continued on. Past a car park for a waterfall viewing point and a load more tourists and then I took the turning onto the scenic route past the Quiraing. It is a spectacular and quite desolate landscape, caused by a series of landslips thousands of years ago, and again seemed very quiet. I drove slowly, enjoying the view and stopping for pictures. Then at the highest point of the drive there were yet more tourists.

I hastened by and on back down to the shoreline and on to the Fairy Glen - the most disappointing tourist site I’ve ever seen when compared to its internet advert! Luckily it was only a short walk and the walk is interesting, with strange, small, conical shaped hills and a huge rock formation dominating the scene. But the beautiful and ethereal stone circles, which I had thought were a series of large, concentric rings turned out to be tiny pebbles that had two children running round it kicking them all over the place (manners and respect, again?!), and a brand new path scarred the vista as well. Compare it to Amber’s photo from just a couple of years before and it was a sad reflection of over-visited and under-respected destruction. Back at the car I realized I’d gotten away without paying the parking charges.

Next was a very understated trio of standing stones, thought to once make up part of a stone circle, called Borve Stone Row . No tourists were flocking to this site but it was quite sweet. I knew then that I was going to be two hours early for dinner. I had allowed one hour just in case, but sadly they didn’t even open the doors until 6pm. I read in the car for a while, right knee aching and everything else stiff.

At 6pm The Dunvegan said they could start my dinner straight away and I was excited to be told that the three course Fire Dining Experience (not a typo!) would consist of three courses of EVERYTHING on the menu. There were quite a few things that I wouldn’t ordinarily have chosen to eat so I was curious to try it all. In between courses I took in the view across the water with the changing sunlight on the two little white houses and the luminous green hills. There was a lovely chill vibe with instrumental house music and lots of fairy lights and rustic wooden furniture and throw cushions. By the end of the meal I’d tried pickled herring (lush!), mussels (not for me), fire glazed pears with local blue cheese and a Gaelic Coffee (with whiskey of course).

As I drove to my accommodation in Colbost the sun was setting and the clouds were still moody but with some orange sky setting off the distant rain squalls. The sky was reflected in the loch and the evening felt quite magical so I took my time. The accommodation was a big room with a living area in a quiet spot on the coast with views over the water and, even better, I got a lie in as the bakery didn’t open for breakfast until 10am.